From http://www.desmoinesregister.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2007706140359

Datebook Diner: DuBay nearly among D.M.'s elite
By W.E. MORANVILLE
DATEBOOK DINER

June 14, 2007

"I felt like a walking comment card since this place opened," our personal, professional and quick-witted server said with a laugh (and just the right tone) as we gave her some feedback on a salad at DuBay's.

Well, send the notes back to the kitchen, I wanted to say, because a pretty good restaurant could be a very good one with some fine-tuning.

WHO, WHAT, WHERE? DuBay's Fine Dining has opened in the Drake neighborhood, in the space where Varsity Café and 25th Street Café have ventured before. DuBay is the maiden name of owner Thomas Tully's mother as well as the last name of the chef (and Tully's cousin), Brian DuBay.

ATMOSPHERE: Dijon-mustard colored walls, flickering candlelight votives over cloth-covered tables, a sizzling open kitchen and trees swaying outside storefront windows help give the space a nice vibe. The kitchen is open late, offering a good option for after-the-show dining.

MENU: What we noticed first were the Louisiana touches. Find Blackened Sashimi Tuna, Blackened Chicken Alfredo, Cajun Salmon Pasta and Blackened Chicken Salad, along with a few takes on alligator (stuffed mushrooms, for instance). Non-New Orleans choices in steaks, pastas and seafood crowd the menu. Most entrees cost $15 to $29, although anyone looking to splurge can opt for 8 ounces of high-end Kobe beef for $55.

FIRST TASTES: The crab cakes here were fine for the price, although once you've had Joseph's all-about-crab version, it's hard to go back. Breading and spice overpowered the crab appeal here.

A better starter proved to be the slick and sparkling spinach salad. Even though the kitchen switched in feta cheese for Gorgonzola and a yellow apple for a green one, the flavors combined well with the pancetta and sesame-honey vinaigrette. I'm sure it would be even better with the Gorgonzola (and the sweet yellow apple was a keeper).

The Gorgonzola Steak brought a flavorful cut topped with caramelized onions and cheese sided with a rich goat cheese and mushroom gratin. I would imagine that my favorite entrée would have been the pork loin - starring a stuffing of prosciutto and roasted red peppers - had it arrived to the table warm instead of lukewarm.

STAY FOR DESSERT? Cheesecake, Bourbon Street Bread Pudding something called Brian's Celebrated Chocolate Misery tell you where the dessert scene is headed, although fresh sorbets and ice creams should balance the heaviness. I'm sad to report that a White Chocolate Brownie came so underbaked (think batter, not goo), that we refused it.

BOTTOM LINE: A good start, although some tightening will be needed before diners should plunk down $55 for Kobe beef.